Mileea`s Survival Guide

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check list, disaster, disaster supplies, food storage, foraging, hunting, protection, safety, survival, survival guide

Survival Preparedness Guide

•  Water Collection and Storage: The best way to gather water is in a downspout barrel that collects rainwater. Obtaining water this way is safer than collection from a pond or stream since they have a much greater chance of contamination. It is also a good point to note that many survivalist are changing to metal roofing as its weatherproof,fireproof, and has a smooth surface that is less likely to contaminate your water supply.
• WATER PURIFICATION

1)  Clear water is a sign of pure water. Always drain long-standing pipes for 30 seconds to one minute before drinking!

2)  1 Gallon water is disinfected by 8-16 drops of regular household bleach (visually about 1/4 of a teaspoon) – double that for cloudy water. Shake and let stand 30 minutes. One teaspoon will disinfect 5 gallons. Immediately after treating, water must initially have a slight smell of chlorine. If it does not – repeat the process.

3)  Household bleach is relatively harmless. The smell or �waft� of chlorine is not bad: it indicates that water is treated and germ free. Once treated and disinfected, the chlorine smell will go away in a few days.

4)  Regularly used water from large tanks may be treated once or twice a month with 1 Oz. bleach per 200 gallons or 5 Oz. bleach per 1000 gallons.

5)  Long-standing water in tanks will be disinfected w/ 1 pint household bleach per 1000 gallons. (2500 gal tanks are fine with 3 pints.)

6)  Bleach effectively kills bacteria and viruses, stops smells and then breaks down. It’s effective germ killing alkaline property is completely neutralized very quickly. It does not stay chemically active in tanks for more than a few days. Most germs require sunlight to grow. Store water in the dark.

7)  If water is relatively clear: but has a noticeable smell of chlorine: it is drinkable, disinfected, and harmless. Humans need 2 quarts per day.

• Food Storage:

Food being a very important commodity in any disaster should be carefully maintained and in good supply. Having dozens of cans of spoiled food will not do you much good in a disaster so try to be diligent in disposing of out of date food. Salt is very important to keep a healthy supply of it has literally dozens of purposes first and foremost food preservation. I would recommend keeping several cases of both iodised and non-iodised salt on hand. Use the iodised for food preparation and the rest for attracting game, preserving meats, and even use it to relieve the swelling and pain of a bee sting. So get several times more salt than you think you’ll need.

Now that we have plenty of salt lets discuss dry foods such as, beans, rice, and pasta. Rice should be high up on your list as it has a pretty good shelf life of up to 10 years. I would suggest getting around 100 pounds for a family of 4, since this should last around a year if combined with other food stuffs.

I know this sounds like a lot but it is better safe than sorry. I would also recommend keeping a similar supply of oats and pasta as they store for long periods of time and take up  relatively small amounts of space for the amount of food they produce. You can make flour from whole wheat that will last years longer than regular flour. You just need to buy whole grain wheat and grind it into flour yourself.

I recommend keeping a supply of olive oil (frozen, in plastic bottles it will last about 4 years), mayonnaise, canned butter, and peanut butter. These products should be date checked at least once a year and disposed of when spoiled. I would suggest donating items a few months before going out of date to ensure they get used. Hey, it will make you feel better to know you didn’t waste the money and help feed someone in need. When considering what type of milk to buy I would suggest purchasing nonfat nitrogen packed as it has the longest shelf life of up to 5 years.  It is recommended to keep to have at least a case of each canned fruit, vegetables, and meat per person per year. More if you do not live close to where you can hunt and fish to replenish supply. Sugar is another important commodity that should be  stored in similar quantity as salt. It is useful for many reasons besides sweetening your tea.

Some other useful items are plastic bags and containers. For trash bags I would suggest “Husky” brand yard bags for their durability and price. Another item of importance is aluminum foil as it will serve various purposes both in food storage and prep. Lastly, don’t forget spices,vinegar,baking soda, and yeast.

Pots and Pans: These items may seem at first self-explanatory, but they will serve many purposes during your ordeal. I would suggest you use cast iron if possible for cooking as they are nearly indestructible. I would get several sizes including a dutch oven. It is great for cooking on a stove or outdoors in a fire pit. Dont forget to have a really large stewpot as you will need it to boil water for drinking, bathing, laundry, and dishwashing. Dont forget to have butchering and skinning tools that you might need if your planning on hunting game.

• Personal check list: Have each family member make a person checklist of items that they will need such as, spare glasses, medications, and necessary hygiene products. Lastly, don’t forget “Comfort” items to help get through high stress times. (Books, games, CDs, chocolates, etc.)
• Needed First Aid and Surgical Equipment: It is very possible that you and your family will be cut off from medical facilities and professionals. So it will be important for you to have a well stocked first aid kit. Note, I do not mean one of those little crappy ones from Wal-Mart with 100 band aids and a few packs of generic antibiotic ointment. In your kit you should have at the minimum 100 band aids of various sizes per person as well as several rolls of gauze. Know that there will be a need at some point to treat burns make sure you have plenty of burn ointment on hand. It is also a good idea to put together a minor surgical kit for dental procedures and other life threatening injuries. Remember to include as many strong painkillers and tubes of dental ointment as you can. Dont forget to include a few spools of heavy-duty thread and several small gauge sewing needles. Buy a full minor surgery outfit you can find them online through several distributors. It may come in handy and its better to be prepared for the worst than find out you need it later. Lastly, I would recommend you include some crazy glue. its great for closing small cuts after they have been disinfected. They have similar products available at the local drugstore made for this purpose with disinfectant already inside.
• Hygiene and Sanitary Supplies: Since it is doubtful you will have running water you will need to make some sort of outhouse( I know yuck) but it will be necessary. Powdered lime is a great choice for managing the smell and keeping down bacteria. Remember to have it well away from any water sources you might be using. We don’t want that getting into your drinking water.  You will also want to have a good supply of soaps( hand, dish, and laundry), disinfectants, shampoo, toothpaste,sunscreen, and feminine products.
• Lighting and Power: It will be a good idea to have several crank rechargeable lights on hand. I have many myself that also have a solar charging feature so try to look for those they come in handy. You will want to be careful when using lights at night since it will call attention to you. Make sure you have black out screens or curtains to give the impression f vacancy. People without provisions and equipment will be looking for those that do in order to acquire them. For power I would suggest having a solar unit but as so few of us (me included) have this a second choice would be a diesel fueled generator. Even if you do not use a diesel generator I would suggest getting the largest diesel tank you can afford to use for farming equipment, chain saws, and vehicles. It will be easier to find after a disaster. Dont forget to have at least a few large fire extinguishers readily available in case of a mishap.
• Survival Clothing and Gear: Try to purchase earth tones clothing that will allow you to disappear into the brush should you come into contact with less than savory individuals.   Include cold/foul weather gear for each member of your household. Synthetic double-bag (modular) sleeping bags for each person just in case you need to leave your home for the outdoors. Most importantly, get to know your neighbors this can not be stressed enough. They will either be you chief source of competition or your lifesaver in a disaster. Mark the names of each person you know well on a map so that you can reference it later in bartering situations.
• Security: It will be important to have at least a few guns safely stored away will a good stock of ammunition. I know a lot of you abhor the use of guns, but in many disaster situations they will come in handy. They are good for hunting as well so make sure you buy extra ammo accordingly. It couldn’t hurt to stop by your local hunting supply and ask what the most popular brands of shot are. These will be worth a great deal in a disaster and can be used for bartering.
• Necessary Tools: There are many tools you want to have on hand that you might not have thought of. Most of you will have assumed you would need tools for working on vehicles and equipment. It will also be good to have tools for gardening, construction, and wood working. Now that you have the tools you need make a list of items that you use regularly such as work gloves, nails, duct tape, twine, and glue.
• Well now that you can’t fit into your attic or park your car in the garage your ready for a disaster or a nap. It isn’t necessary to look at any single survival list as complete. I would suggest looking at a few and making your own to fit your own needs.

10 things you will need to have or do in a disaster

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disaster, disaster plan, food, safety, survival, sustainable

10 Things That You Will Need when an Emergency Strikes

Many people do not know what they need in order to survive after a natural disaster. Most assume that they will just go down to the store and be given what they need. Other assume their church will get them through. Sadly, as seen with Katrina that will not be the case. It will be up to you to provide what you need that is why it is so important that you are prepared. Remember, nobody is going to prepare for you.

The following is a list of items that you will want to make sure that you and your family have in case you are faced with an emergency.

#1) Storable Food

Canned food is a priority when a disaster strikes as you will not be able to just run to your nearest grocery store  to get what you want. In many cases you will be confined to your home for extended periods of time. You are going to need food that doesn’t require refrigeration as electricity will be scarce or non-existent. Even if you plan to growing your own food it is best to have a substantial amount of storable food put away.

#2) Clean Water

Most people could make it for a number of weeks without food, but without water you will die in a matter of days. You and your family are going to need clean water. Is there an abundant supply of water near your home? Will you be able to boil water if you need to? Without clean water you just are not going to survive for long.

#3) Shelter

In many natural disasters the possibility of losing your home is likely. What would you do if you lost your home or you were forced from your home? You and your family will need a safe warm place to sleep. Since, it is likely electricity will be unavailable make sure you have plenty of firewood on hand to keep you warm. In addition, always make sure you have a backup plan if you have to leave where you are at. Do you have family you can move in with if necessary? Do you have a tent that you could set up in the woods? If not take a look at the shelters v.s bunkers category for instructions on building an emergency shelter. Make sure you have a utility knife and tools needed to build your shelter.

#4) Warm Clothing

This is especially important if you live in a colder climate. You are your family need to prepare as if you would not be able to depend on the power company. Keep a store of clothing as if you would have to make it without heat if necessary. Always make sure to have plenty of blankets as well. Already there have been recent news stories this winter of people freezing to death inside their own homes after having their heat turned off. Don’t let that be you.

#5) Communication

This is especially important if you live in an isolated area. Always have a way to communicate with the outside world. Whether it is an emergency cell phone or something else, if you are able to call an ambulance in a timely manner it might save your life. Walkie-talkies are another way to communicate should phone service be unavailable. You can set up a local disaster network among you neighbors in order to give and receive assistance. It is those who are willing to work together that will have the best chance of making it.

#6) Lighters Or Matches

There may come a day when you need to start a fire in order to cook food or to boil water or to stay warm. When that day comes, do you really want to try rubbing sticks together to start a fire? Of course not. Now is the time to put away a supply of lighters or matches so that you will be prepared when you really need them. I would also recommend keeping a supply of steel wool and 9 volt batteries as you can immediately start a fire by putting the battery to the steel wool.

#7) Comfortable Shoes

This is an item that not a lot of people think of when it comes to survival. But what if you find yourself in an emergency situation where you are not able to use your car? What if you find yourself out in the wilderness far from the nearest town?  Especially if you are headed out to a wilderness area, make certain to have some shoes on hand that will be comfortable.

#8) Flashlight And Plenty Of Extra Batteries

Just think about what happens when the power goes out now. What quickly becomes one of the most important items? A flashlight. Without a flashlight, you won’t be able to do much of anything after the sun goes down. Also, make sure you have plenty of extra batteries, because in a prolonged crisis your flashlight will be of little help without batteries.

#9) A Battery-Powered Radio

In a crisis situation, you will want to know what is going on in the world around you. A battery-powered radio can be a great source of information. You can even get a wind-up radio in some stores that doesn’t require batteries at all. Now, you can certainly survive without a radio, but you are your family will feel much better if you have some way of keeping track of what is going on out there.

#10) Sanitation Supplies And A First Aid Kit

Keeping a good emergency kit on hand will be very important to your survival. Untreated wounds will weaken if not outright kill you in an emergency situation where medical assistance might be scarce. In addition, what would you do without toilet paper or soap? I am sure you get the idea. Things can get unsanitary fast sp make sure that you and your family have plenty of supplies on hand.

 

How to Build Your Own Emergency Shelter

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building, bunker, disaster, shelter, survival

How to Build a Bomb Shelter

Obtained from: “The Practical Handymans Encyclopedia’

Note: Before beginning this or any permanent structural project please consult a building professional to ensure your safety.

Some good suggestions that’ll make your job an easier one
If you should want to build your own shelter, how would you go about it? First of all, you need a sharp pencil and a lot of paper. Shelter plans are designed for the average person. You are not the average person. You have special needs,and your shelter will he better suited for you if you design it for those needs.OCDM plans are excellent, but let them be a guide only .You must decide what type of shelter fits your individual needs. Each type of shelter has its own type of plans and problems.
Finally, you should make a tour of all suppliers for bids. You will find prices vary from place to place.If you live in or near a large city, check with local wrecking companies. These places offer excellent buys in good used materials at prices far below new products. Check all material for nails and termite damage. Also with all suppliers, have them include delivery,prices with the materials. Many of these items are much too heavy or bulky to be carried by car. Some suppliers deliver free.
Others make a charge for every delivery. lf the latter is the case, plan your purchases to lower the number of deliveries.

No matter what type of shelter you build, working with concrete will be a major part of the construction. Concrete blocks are probably the easiest material to use in shelter construction because of their ease of handling and good protection factor. Poured concrete slabs can also be used, with heavy half-inch steel rod embedded, for strong roof and wall sections of a shelter, but for the average do-it-yourselfer, it is much easier to build these sections of block and to brace them from within the structure. It is also much cheaper. Standard size for a cinder block is 8x8x12 inches. Solid concrete blocks in standard size is 4x8x16 inches, although many other sizes are available, or you can cut these to a size that is needed. In figuring number of blocks needed, don’t forget to allow for space mortar will fill in a series of blocks. A good rule of thumb for walls is that a wall eight blocks high will give you a ceiling just over six feet above your head.

A footer row of blocks will be your first problem in building with blocks. If this first row of blocks is to be laid on a cement floor, such as you would have in building a basement shelter, a key way or slot must be cut in the present basement floor with a chisel. This is cut the width of a cinder block and then dug out to accommodate all but the top of a cinder block. After the key way has been cleaned out, a layer of black polyethylene 6 mil insulation material should be laid to prevent moisture from seeping up through the floor. Cut this material so it will cover the bottom and both sides of the key way! and leave an inch or so above the floor level.

Mortar is then poured along this key way and the first set of blocks set into place. This will make a secure lock for your walls foundation. Many states require that the footing for a block wall be poured as one continuous operation. Additional locking for walls can be had by knocking a hole into the existing basement wall at the end of each row of blocks put up. The end block of each row is then mortised into the existing wall by about half its length.The footer for a row of blocks set into the ground is done much the same way, except it is advisable to place at least two blocks below ground level. This will make walls more secure than using a shallow footing. Mortar used in all concrete construction for a shelter should be a mixture designed for earthquake areas: 1 part masonry cement 1 part portland cement 4-6 parts mortar sand. To mix your mortar, work all the dry ingredients together thoroughly in the proportions above. Then slowly add a little water and mix some more. If too heavy, repeat. It is better to use too little water than even a little bit too much. When ready for use, the mortar should be a workable plastic mixture. If the mortar dries a little faster than you are using it, add a little more water as you need it, and remix. A good test for your mortar is to put a shovel full aside from the mix, and if it stands alone without spreading, and no water runs off, your mortar should be just right.
Don’t try to economize on mortar. One fellow used the dirt he was taking from the site of his shelter for the second part of his mix. It was much too coarse. and his project met with disaster. You can build a mortar box for mixing from a sheet of plywood. It is just as cheap and more convenient to mix in a wheelbarrow. When ready, the mortar can be wheeled to your working site A hoe will be the easiest too to use in making your mlx.Another tool you must have is a long mason’s level. Every block you lay must be checked to make sure it is level. Every row of blocks must also he tested to make sure they are level. A 2×4 can be used to tap several blocks down evenly and neatly.Once your footer, or base, for all your walls is in place, and level, you are then ready to start your wall up in rows.
Start laying your first row at a corner, not on the end of a footer row. Place the blocks in the opposite position of the blocks on the footer row. This will put the mortar seams above a solid part of the block below, not above another seam. Alternate the position of the blocks like this in every other row. If your row does not come out the exact length desired, don’t worry. Merely trim part of the last block in a row with a mason’s hammer. As the row of blocks goes up, use you’ll level along the vertical line of the wall to make sure the rows are straight. Excessive mortar should be scraped off blocks with a trowel as soon as possible.A neat job of making a professional-looking joint between two blocks can be done by making a “V” in the mortar with a stick. As the walls to your shelter go up you can get more radiation protection by filling the holes in cinder blocks with dirt. This may not be needed in a basement shelter, but in other types it is highly desirable.

Now is the time to use some of the dirt you excavate from your yard. When you have reached the top row of your shelter’s wall, either the basement or other types, you can now put in the supports for your
ceiling. The ceiling will have a great amount of weight, so more than a normal amount of supporting must be done. Steel beams are best, placed close together, as many as you can afford. Next best are
wooden beams of at least 2×6. Two 2×6 beams nailed together and set on the row of blocks will make a support 4 inches wide and six inches high. Spaced four inches apart, and braced together with lumber, these beams will make a strong support. All space around the ends of the beams on the block wall are then filled with mortar to the top of beams.You are now ready for the first layer of your roof. The easiest thing to use for this is two layers of 1 inch plywood sheets. It would be
better if these were nailed to the supports. but if you can’t reach the centers in a basement shelter you can nail them down along the edges. The weight of the next layer will hold them in place.
On top of the plywood, lay two rows of solid concrete blocks (4x8x16), to make a radiation shield 16 inches thick. These blocks are merely laid tightly into place.There is no need to mortar them together.Inside support for walls can be had by bolting 4×4’s up the entire height of the wall. Let the top ends of these vertical supports wedge under the roof supports. If this job is done before mortar has completely set it will be much easier to position bolts and they will be locked tighter into the wall by the still wet mortar. These vertical supports can also be used later to hang bunks and storage shelves, but make certain plenty of support under these additions is provided to keep strain off wall support, and thus defeating their purpose. Basement shelters have some special
design problems of their own. If doors and windows in the basement are blocked by sandbags, air filtering for this type of shelter will not be necessary. To provide a good air supplier, leave a row of small holes along the second row of wall blocks from the floor level. Also, a second false wall, to act as a radiation baffle, can be constructed as part of the shelter across the door. This can be left open to allow passage of air. When planning your basement shelter, try to make it a dual-purpose
room. If head room is sufficient, a TV room, playroom, den, or darkroom can be had by adding inside paneling to the walls. The size of a basement shelter is not too important. It will depend how much of your basement you are willing to turn over for this purpose, and upon how
many people must be sheltered. A 10 x10-foot shelter is designed to accommodate six people.
Earth covered shelters present a number of problems that are not met in the construction of a basement shelter. Let us look at each of these problems separately:
(A) Excavate or Tunnel? If your house has a basement this will be the first decision you must make. Should the shelter be attached to the house through the basement, or should it be completely away from the house. The preshaped shelter which is built at least partially above
ground because of a high water table or a rock condition to solve the problem for you. It would be most difficult to connect it with the house basement.

The underground shelter is a different
matter. Here you have a choice. Actually, it makes little difference. It might be more convenient to attach the shelter to the basement by means of a connecting tunnel, but your shelter will be just as effective with an outside entrance. An inside entrance from your basement, however, will probably be a little cheaper to build. The method you use to dig out the ground for your underground shelter may also cause you to ponder. You can either remove the dirt from above ground, by digging down, or you can tunnel below ground from your basement. You may want to tunnel if you don’t want to tear up the lawn, or if a number of large trees are over the spot you elect for a shelter. If you do tunnel, be extremely careful about cave ins. Shore up as you work and tunnel only small areas at a time. This method will be much slower and will cost some more than cutting down from the surface. If you do dig down from the surface you can do the work by hand, but it will require a lot of shoveling and time.If the extra money is unavailable, it would be much faster and less labor involved to hire a tractor scoop to come in and do the job within a few hours time. Any connection you may decide to make between your house and your shelter, such as air vents, water lines, or
electricity, should be put in place before dirt is replaced.
(B) Heat: A small wood burning stove in your shelter would be ideal to supply heat and for cooking. A hot water heater type available from Sears or Wards would be a good choice. But in either an underground or basement shelter, a stove of this type must be vented to keep fumes from filling the shelter. A vent pipe should be run out of the shelter before construction has been completed, if a stove is considered. The outside of the vent pipe should have a gooseneck hood to prevent
radioactive fallout from coming down vent pipe. Aluminium vents would be better for underground use because of rusting danger with other metals. To prevent a fire hazard make sure vent pipe does not touch any wood.
(C) Water: This item of survival is your most precious one. Men have lived for days without food, but only for hours without water. A simple, yet excellent supply of water can be had by driving a pipe down through the floor of the shelter until water is reached. Then fasten an old-fashioned hand pump to the pipe. But don’t forget to have several gallons of water on hand to prime this type of pump. You must pour water down from the top and pump it back up to start the operation of the pump. A pump of this type can be had from either Sears or other online retailers.
(D) Waterproofing and Drainage: This is the problem common with all earth covered shelters. You must keep water from seeping or running into the shelter after heavy rains or melting snows begin.
If you do a careful preventive job while your shelter is under construction, you should not have a problem.

There are three lines of attack against moisture. You should use all three:

1. Ditching:
Around each wall of your shelter, dig a trench one foot wide and one foot deep. Fill this trench with six inches of gravel and rock. Then, from each corner of the shelter, run clay drain pipes for at least S2X feet away from foundation. Make sure you slant them down and away from your
foundation. If you dig a hole at the end of each rain and fill this with rock, it will also help.

2. Paint:
Special waterproofing paint should then be applied to both the inside and outside surfaces of the
walls

3. Vapor Barrier: Black polyethylene 6 mil insulating plastic sheets can help stop water from entering through the floor and roof. As a final touch these cracks.
(E) Roof: With a combination of weight from earth and concrete blocks on it. An earth covered roof must be extra strong. It must also be waterproof. The same roof as was outlined for the basement shelter can be used here for maximum blast and radiation protection, but at least three feet of earth must also cover it. Supports for this roof must be at least equal to those described for the basement shelter. Added strength can be gained by running another concrete wall through the center of the shelter for added center support of the roof. Over the solid concrete blocks a large sheet of black polyethylene should be laid, with the edges overlapping the edge of the blocks by at least a foot. On top of this place sheets of corrugated aluminium of at least .019 inches in thickness. Steel would do as well, but would rust Before dirt is filled in on top of shelter,add another layer of polyethylene.
(F) Air: When the door of an underground shelter, or the door on a preshaped earth-covered shelter closes, radiation is closed out, but so is the vital air supply needed for human life. Some means must be provided to get safe ventilation to the people inside these types of shelters.
Plans issued by the OCDM for shelters of this type provide for the intake of fresh air through vertical pipes reaching upward through the roof of a shelter. Attached to the end of the vent, inside the shelter, is a hand-operated blower to suck the air into the shelter through filters. There is a question, however whether these projection air vents would not be snapped off in the high winds and pressures that would be encountered near a 20-megaton blast. It is not until you get 15 miles away from such a blast that the winds subside to 80 mph speed that is considered dangerous in a hurricane. Pressure from the blast at this range will be down to 2.3 psi. The situation is much better at 20 miles where winds are then down to 40 mph a mere breeze when compared with those
encountered from 15 mph on in toward the blast. Pressure at 20 miles has also dropped to about 1.3 psi. Official Atomic Energy Commission tests held in Nevada in 1950 showed that in the area where pressures reached 30 pounds per inch, a one-half-inch pipe was bent to the round and the valve handle, stem, and bonnet were blown off. At the same location two 4-inch ventilating pipes were sheared off just below ground level. Pressures up to 30 psi are encountered from a 20-megaton blast up to three miles away from ground zero. vertical vents on shelters as shown in CD plans, would have a good chance of being cut off or bent to the ground, leaving the occupant of the shelter with no air supply. If your shelter is to be located within 20 miles of a potential target, it seems prudent to this author that the owner of such a shelter install a type of ventilating system that would be protected from such hazards. A system of retractable vents would work nicely, but
the Atomic Energy Commission has advised that the cost for a safe system of this type would be much too high for the average shelter owner.
A relatively inexpensive method for providing air through a ventilating system safe from high winds and pressures is an underground type. By using a natural embankment, or making one at the edge of your yard, you have a vent come into your shelter under the ground. This vent is of the type used on hot-air furnaces, and it can be made of aluminium by any metal shop. Aluminium should be used to prevent rusting of the buried unit. A large diameter pipe could also be Used but there are two reasons for the rectangular type. A coal chute door of steel can be attached to the outside end of the vent. This can be shut from the inside during the most severe conditions; it can then be opened from the inside to allow air to enter the shelter. It will also accommodate a fiberglass filter used on furnaces. You can have the vent made as large as you like, but a 20×25-inch opening should be the limit. Of course, the larger the Vent the larger the air flow. The entire vent system is braced at least three feet underground by a frame of 2×4’s. Attached to the frame is a series of pulleys for opening the steel door from inside the shelter by a 4-inch steel rope. Another steel rope runs down inside the vent to close it. Another use for the vent might be for an emergency escape hatch, in the event the shelter door was damaged by blast, or was blocked by debris. The steel rope, normally used to close the steel vent door, would then be used to allow a person to pull himself up through the vent. The vent would enter the shelter near the floor level, and a similar vent, near the ceiling of the shelter, could be used to carry off stale air, smoke, or fumes. This second vent could easily be a round stovepipe made from aluminium, and available from suppliers ready-made. The exhaust vent should also have an air filter on it, too. The outside ends Or all vents should be shielded from above to keep fallout from coming down the vents line. Fallout particles are about the size of an average drain of
salt or sugar, reduced in size from one tenth to one half. They are in the shape of small spheres of teardrop shaped cinders or ashes. These particles settle to earth the same as dust and enter the same places dust can. To keep these specks of radioactive dust from entering the shelter with pure air, a filtering system is needed. Filters of glass fiber block or other fibrous material is very effective for this job. Inexpensive filters of fiberglass that are used for a home furnace are of this type. Filters are also commercially available which have been designed for shelter use. A blower, either hand-operated or electrically driven can be attached in the shelter to pull air in at a faster rate than will normally flow into the shelter.
(G) Doors: The door of your shelter must he considered one of the most important pieces of equipment for the shelter. In a quote from the Atomic Energy Commission points this out “This is the first line of defense against blast and radiation; failure to lock the door could be disastrous.The size and the type of door you pick for your shelter will depend upon several factors, but whatever your choice is, you must pick a steel door that can be locked from the inside by some type of bolt,
and it must be hung in a steel and cement frame.The door is all important!

Talk on Survival Communities

Tags

communities, survival

 

I have been reading a lot lately on these survival complexes or communities. Its interesting but seemingly a bit out of most individuals range. I am all about saving whoever you can in a disaster not just the guy who can afford the million dollar price tag for deluxe accommodations.

Recently, I was watching a show on television where these guys were converting an old silo into premium survival apartments. The price tag for a 700 sq.ft. apartment was 1.7 million dollars. Now I don’t know about the rest of you, but holy cow that is a lot of money. Of course that included an indoor pool and full staff. (I wonder where did I stuck that lottery ticket!)

The interesting thing I did note about the program was the amount of supplies that many of these groups are directing to their  projects. They are  buying up as many supplies as the market can spare. This seems to bode ill for those of us who are looking to put back our own survival equipment and supplies.

I wanted to try and get your take on these communities and how they will affect the availability of supplies to families and smaller groups making their own preparations.

 

How to Purify Water

Tags

purification, safety, survival, water, water filtration, wilderness

WATER PURIFICATION

Since water is the most important item to have, (you die within days without it) I thought that it would be a good idea to compile some good information on precedures that will be beneficial to your survival.

Rainwater collected in clean containers or in plants is usually safe for drinking. However, purify water from lakes, ponds, swamps, springs, or streams, especially the water near human settlements or in the tropics. When possible, purify all water you got from vegetation or from the ground by using iodine or chlorine, or by boiling. Purify water by– •Using water purification tablets. (Follow the directions provided.) •Placing 5 drops of 2 percent tincture of iodine in a canteen full of clear water. If the canteen is full of cloudy or cold water, use 10 drops. (Let the canteen of water stand for 30 minutes before drinking.) •Boiling water for 1 minute at sea level, adding 1 minute for each additional 300 meters above sea level, or boil for 10 minutes no matter where you are. By drinking nonpotable water you may contract diseases or swallow organisms that can harm you.

Examples of such diseases or organisms

•Dysentery- Severe, prolonged diarrhea with bloody stools, fever, and weakness.

•Cholera- an acute infectious disease characterized by watery diarrhea that is caused by the bacterium Vibrio cholerae

•Typhoid – An acute, highly infectious disease caused by a bacillus (Salmonella  typhi) transmitted chiefly by contaminated food or water and characterized  by high fever, headache, coughing, intestinal hemorrhaging, and rose-colored  spots on the skin.

Note: You may be susceptible to these diseases regardless of inoculations.

•Flukes-Stagnant, polluted water–especially in tropical areas–often contains blood flukes. If you swallow flukes, they will bore into the bloodstream, live as parasites, and cause disease.

•Leeches- If you swallow a leech, it can hook onto the throat passage or inside the nose. It will suck blood, create a wound, and move to another area. Each bleeding wound may become infected.

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/water-3.php

How to   Make an Improvised Charcoal Water Filter:

1. Obtain FRESH charcoal that has cooled completely. To create a good supply of charcoal, create a camp fire and when you have a good coal bed, bank your fire by covering it with dirt or ash and come back in a day or two. Uncover   the charcoal and allow to cool completely before removing.
2. Crush your charcoal into small bits, from powder up to the size of aquarium   gravel.
3. Obtain or fashion a cylindrical container. Taller is better than wider. In the photos I’m using a 2-liter soda bottle with the end cut off.
4. Fill the smaller opening with tightly packed grass or a piece of fabric (if both ends are the same diameter choose either one) to prevent the charcoal   from falling out or running through with the water. If you are using a bottle that still has its cap, poke a small hole in the cap before placing your fabric or grass.
5. Pack the crushed charcoal into the container TIGHTLY. The idea here   is to create as fine a matrix as possible for the water to DRIP through slowly,   thus trapping more sediment and “wee beasties”. If the water runs   rather than drips through the filter, you need to pack your charcoal tighter. You should have enough crushed charcoal to fill your cylinder up about halfway.
6. It is a good idea to place a couple of inches of packed-down grass or sand,   or another piece of cloth on top of the charcoal to prevent it from becoming displaced when you add your water.
7. Place your filter atop a catch-container for your water. In the photo we   are using a glass jar so you can see the changes easily, but in a wilderness situation it is a good idea to filter directly into the pot you are going to boil the water in rather than the one you will be drinking from (in  the event they are not one in the same).
8. Slowly pour the untreated water into your filter (being careful not        to displace your sand) filling the remainder of your cylinder with water        and allowing it to slowly percolate through. Remember, the water should DRIP SLOWLY out the bottom of your filter.
9. After all of the water has run through the filter, pour it back through        as many times as needed to make it clear. I usually run it through at        least two, preferably three, times.
10. Once the desired clarity has been achieved, bring the water to a boil        for a few minutes in order to make sure it is completely sterilized.        Remember, boiling is the only way to ensure safety from pathogens. (Taste can be further improved by adding a small lump of charcoal to the boiling water.) Enjoy your clean water!

http://www.practicalprimitive.com/newsletterarchive/june10.html

Basics of Survival

Tags

fire, shelter, survival, water purification

I found a really good short guide on survival basics. I will be writing a more comprehensive guide however, this one is good to use for the interim.

The 5 Basic Survival Skills

July 17, 2007 | Filed under: important skills,survival | Posted by: Ron Fontaine

Acquiring survival skills is an ongoing process that will last for your entire life. There is always more to learn and experience, which is part of the fun of being a survivor.

As your survival expertise grows the knowledge and abilities you gain are often useful in other areas. For example survivors prepare ahead of time, and they are experts in the art of ingenuity and inventiveness. Excellent attributes for anyone.

The possible environments and situations you could find yourself in are innumerable. Although each situation has its particular requirements for successfully surviving, in the final analysis it is mastery of five basic survival skills that are essential. Proficiency and preparedness in these 5 basic skills will give you the edge and put you on your way toward becoming a talented survivor.

First Basic Survival Skill – Fire

Knowing how to build a fire is the best survival skill you can have. Fire provides warmth, light, and comfort so you get on with the business of survival. Even if you do not have adequate clothing a good fire can allow you to survive in the coldest of environments.

Fire keeps away the creatures that go bump in the night and so you can have the peace of mind and rest you need. And that is not all. Fire will cook your food and purify your water, both excellent attributes when you want to stay healthy when potential disease causing organisms are lurking about. Fire will dry your clothing and even aid in the making of tools and keeping pesky insects at bay.

But even that is not all. Fire and smoke can be used for signaling very long distances.

Always have at least two, and preferably three, ways of making a fire at you immediate disposal. With waterproof matches, a butane lighter, and a magnesium fire starter or firesteel you should be able to create a fire anytime anywhere no matter how adverse the condtions.

So the lesson here is to learn the art of fire craft. Practice and become an expert. Your ability to create a fire is perhaps the most visible mark of an experienced survivor.

Second Basic Survival Skill – Shelter

Shelter protects your body from the outside elements. This includes heat, cold, rain, snow, the sun, and wind. It also protects you from insects and other creatures that seek to do you harm.

The survival expert has several layers of shelter to think about. The first layer of shelter is the clothing you choose to wear. Your clothing is of vital importance and must be wisely chosen according to the environment you are likely to find yourself in. Be sure to dress in layers in order to maximize your ability to adapt to changing conditions.

The next layer of shelter is the one you may have to build yourself, a lean-to or debris hut perhaps. This is only limited by your inventiveness and ingenuity. If the situation requires, your shelter can be insulated with whatever is at hand for the purpose. Being prepared, you may have a space blanket or tarp with you, in which case creating a shelter should be relatively easy.

Before you are in need of making a survival shelter, be sure to practice and experiment with a variety of materials and survival scenarios on a regular basis. Should the need arise you will be glad you did.

Third Basic Survival Skill – Signaling

Signaling allows you to make contact with people who can rescue you without having to be in actual physical contact with them. There are a variety of ways to signal for help. These include using fire and smoke, flashlights, bright colored clothing and other markers, reflective mirrors, whistles, and Personal Locator Beacons. Three of anything is considered a signal for help: 3 gunshots, 3 blows on a whistle, three sticks in the shape of a triangle.

In a pinch, your ingenuity in devising a way to signal potential help could very well save your life.

Fourth Basic Survival Skill – Food and Water

Whenever you plan an excursion be sure to always bring extra food and water. Having more on hand than you think you need will give you that extra measure of safety should something happened and you have to stay out longer than anticipated.

It is important that you know how to ration your water and food as well as find more in the environment in which you find yourself. You can go without food for a number of days, but living without water for even a few days will cause your efficiency to drop dramatically.

If at all possible, boil any water you find in order to kill disease organisms that may be in even the cleanest looking water. Filtering or chemically treating water is second best.

Fifth Basic Survival Skill – First Aid

Always bring along your first aid kit and a space blanket. Most injuries you are likely to encounter in the wilderness are relatively minor scrapes, cuts, bruises, and burns. Larger injuries are going to need better facilities than that which you have at your disposal, which means you will need outside help.

Panic is your number one enemy when you are in any emergency situation, be it injured, lost, or stranded. What you need in these situations is first aid for the mind.

Think STOP: Sit Think Observe Plan

Your best defense in any emergency is your ability to think and make correct decisions. Building a fire is often the beginning first aid for the mind. Doing so will keep you busy and provide an uplift from the warmth, light and protection fire provides.

Practice Survival Skills

The expert survival skills and know-how you have accumulated through practice and experience will serve you well. When the real thing comes along, you will be prepared and adept at staying alive. Where others have perished, as a survivor you will know you can make it. And that is a good feeling to be sure.